A 3-Day Walk from Kobe to Kyoto

I love traveling in Japan, but during Golden Week, a week-long holiday in the beginning of May, I try not to travel. Not only is everything more expensive during this week, but there are hordes of people everywhere. This is especially true this year, when the usual domestic tourism (which is highest in this season) is compounded with a large influx of foreign tourists, following the lifting of the entry restrictions that were in place for more than three years.

So instead of traveling, which I usually do by car or by train, I decided to walk. Over three days I walked from my home in Kobe to Kyoto, a total distance of about 80km. I set off on Monday morning and arrived at Kyoto Station on Wednesday afternoon, stopping at Amagasaki and Takatsuki along the way.

Day 1: Kobe to Amagasaki (27km)

An almost straight line from east to west, I walked mostly along Route 2, taking diversions on side roads to avoid walking along traffic. Most of this route was familar to me from previous walks. I passed by Oji Zoo, leaving Kobe to walk on to Shukugawa and Ashiya. The Shuku River (as many other rivers during this season) was decorated with koinobori, plastic streamers shaped like carp, symbolizing Children’s Day (the last holiday of Golden Week, on May 5). From there I continued to Nishinomiya, passing by the big Nishinomiya Shrine (famous for the Toka-Ebisu festival, which takes place in January). I am always slightly surprised to see the streets here festooned with the Star of David, which happens to be the symbol of Nishinomiya City. I arrived at Hanshin Amagasaki station for my first night.

Day 2: Amagasaki to Takatsuki (29km)

Setting off early from Amagasaki, I hit a north-easterly route, leaving Hyogo Prefecture by crossing the Kanzaki River into Osaka Prefecture. The first part of the day took me along the river, but then I cut through to Suita, Senrioka, and Ibaraki. This densely populated urban area had nothing of the charm of the previous day, and I trudged along interminable commercial landscape, seeing the same shop and restaurant chains over and over. Today was hotter than yesterday, but a strong breeze kept me cool most of the time. I arrived at JR Takatsuki station for my second night.

Day 3: Takatsuki to Kyoto (26km)

Takatsuki sits between Osaka and Kyoto prefecture, so most of my walk today was in the latter. Continuing in a north-easterly direction, I set Google Maps to Nagaokakyo Station. Not because there is anything special there, but because that’s where my wife works and I’ve never been to the area. I stumbled upon a castle near the station, which I had to look up: Shoryuji Castle, dating from the 14th century. After some more harsh urban landscape, I crossed the Katsura River into the much gentler and more welcoming neighborhoods of Kyoto. I walked north along the Kamo River, finally reaching my final destination: Kyoto Station.

As I was resting before taking the train back home, I was accosted by a Japanese lady who “wanted to practice English”. I told her I speak some Japanese and we had a pleasant conversation, until I found out she was canvassing people as a Jehova’s Witness. I told her I was Jewish and that Jesus was born and died a Jew, and that quickly put an end to our conversation…

Final Comments

• Walking more than 25km per day is not new to me, but I never walked such distances three days in a row. Day Two was the hardest, with pains in my left shin that made me take a longer rest at midday and apply a pain relieving patch before continuing.
• I chose two hotels that had an ofuro, a large onsen-like communal bath, which proved to be a very wise choice. Soaking in the hot water at the end of the day (after the appropriate stretching) helped ease a lot of the muscle pain.
• I would have preferred cooler weather, but I wore appropriate clothing (purchased at Mont Bell, one of my favourite Japanese brands) which helped keep me cool.
• One of the great advantates of urban walks in Japan is that you are never more than a few minutes away from a vending machine or a convenience store. So I didn’t need to worry about hydration; whenever I finished a bottle, I just bought a new one.
• Audio books are a great way to mitigate the boredom that can creep in during these long urban walks. I managed to listed to a long book by Dean Koontz, a performance of a classic Agatha Christie book, and the start of a David Baldacci thriller.
• I took the shinkansen (bullet train) from Kyoto back to Kobe. The ride, which I do several times a month, seemed to pass by like magic. It was hard to accept that this 28-minute ride brought me back to where I set off three days earlier.

Aomori/Hakodate Trip

I took a week-long trip to Aomori Prefecture, the northernmost part of Japan’s main island, Honshu. I drove around from Sunday to Friday, and then spent the weekend in Hakodate, in the southern part of Hokkaido.

Day 1: Kobe > Aomori > Goshogawara

There’s a direct flight from Kobe to Aomori (1.5 hours), on Fuji Dream Airlines, a relatively new low-cost operator. I landed in Aomori around lunchtime.

I picked up my rental car at Aomori Airport and headed west towards the coast of the Sea of Japan. My first destination was Takayama Inari Shrine, a Shinto shrine dedicated to the fox god(s) of fertility, rice, industry, etc. There are tons of Inari shrines around Japan, distinctive for their red torii (gates) and fox statues. This shrine is famous for its long, winding line of torii that lead to an observation deck. A few years ago I visited a similar (and more impressive) Inari shrine: Motonotsumi Inari in Yamaguchi prefecture. Takayama Inari is probably much more impressive in winter, when it is entirely covered in snow.

From there I drove to Tsuro-no-Maihashi bridge, over Fujimiko lake, the “longest triple-arched wooden bridge” in Japan (they love categorizing stuff here, so there’s a lot of “no. 1” things to see). The sun was setting as I parked the car and headed for the bridge, and that provided for a beautiful dusk view of the bridge and its surroundings. The bridge is about 300m long and was constructed in the 1990s. Its name is derived from the many cranes (tsuro) that inhabit the area (literally, “bridge of the dance of the cranes”).

I spent the first night in Goshogawara, a sleepy town (pop. 54,000) – which was particularly sleepy on this hot Sunday evening – wrapping the day off with a soak in the hotel’s onsen.

Day 2: Goshogawara > Fukaura > Towadako

The plan was to spend most of today hiking in the Shirakami Sanchi area, specifically to see the falls at Anmon. But the weather forecast was for heavy rain to start in early afternoon, so the plan changed.

I started off with a visit to Iwakiyama Shrine, so named as it stands at the base of Mount Iwaki. The mountain has been considered sacred from time immemorial, and several shrines were built on and around it for centuries. This shrine was erected more than 1,000 years ago as a Buddhist shrine, but during the Meiji period it became a Shinto shrine, testimony to the flexibility and syncretism of religious belief in Japan.

From Iwakiyama I headed West to the coast, specifically to Senjojiki Coast, based on a friend’s recommendation. This is a bedrock beach which was formed as a result of the earth moving up during an earthquake in 1792. I walked out into the sea, precariously balancing myself on these rock formations. There were lots of seagulls around, and they seemed quite used to the presence of humans.

I then travelled south along the coast, and stopped at Oiwa cave, near Fukaura. This is a tiny isle connected to the shore with a walkway. The “cave” is basically a few meters of stairs carved into the rock and leading up to the top of the isle. It offers a nice view.

On a whim, I continued south to the westernmost tip of the coast, to take a soak at the Koganesaki Furofushi Onsen. This is a hotel, but it accepts day-use guests. There’s an internal bath, with a window overlooking the sea. But the real attraction are the two outdoor baths, on the tip of the coast (one mixed, one for women). The minerals in the water give it a brownish, cloudy colour. I was alone in the bath and watched the seagulls out on the rocks, finishing a book I took with me on this trip. Very peaceful. (I later saw on Facebook that an Israeli acquaintance living in Japan visited the same onsen today; we probably missed each other by an hour or so. Talk about coincidences.)

By now, it was raining quite heavily, and I paid dearly for this unplanned southwestern detour, as my hotel for the night was located at Lake Towada, a good 2.5-hour drive. Because the freeway was partly closed, half of the journey was done through country roads up in the mountains, with hairpin turns. Not a pleasant experience given the heavy rainfall and the fog. I arrived exhausted to the hotel and after a quick dinner and a quick soak in the local onsen, went to bed early.

Day 3: Towadako > Shingo > Sakayu > Towada

It still rained in the morning, and it was very windy, so my plan to take the ropeway up to Mount Hakkoda was scrapped. I headed east to a small village called Shingo, which would have remained anonymous were not Christ himself buried there. Yes, that’s right, Jesus is not buried in Jerusalem after being crucified there at the age of 33. His brother took his place on the cross, and Jesus moved to Japan to live peacefully to the ripe age of 106. Sounds improbable? Not according to the story told in Shingo, which you can read about in the image below.

After this jarring pseudo-historical experience, I continued east to Towada, another sleepy town (pop. 60,000), to visit the Towada Art Center. This was one of the highlights of my trip. This modest-size museum has some very interesting modern-art installations, that transcend beyond regular art exhibits. They challenge all senses and provide a couple of hours of delightful entertainment. Outside the museum are some Yayoi Kusama works, including one inevitable dotted pumpkin.

My hotel for the night was in Towada, but as I still had time I drove back west to Mount Hakkoda to visit the famous Sakayu Onsen. This acidic-water and pungent smelling onsen is popular in winter, when everything is snowed down, but even in summer it was pretty packed. The main attraction here is the large, mixed-gender Hiba Senning Furo (“1,000-person bath”), situated in a large wooden structure. It provides for a unique experience harking back to the days when such all-family baths were common.

Day 4: Towada > Misawa > Shiriyazaki > Mutsu

The sun was out this morning, for the first time on my trip. I drove from Towada to Misawa, a town famous mostly for its US Air Force base. The American presence is noticeable in the center of town, where most shops display English signs and the central shopping street has signs calling it Main Street.

I visited the Misawa Aviation & Science Museum, located next to the base. Although the museum is mostly suitable for children, with many experiential exhibits, it is just as interesting for adults. It displays the beautiful red-painted Miss Veedol, the first airplane to fly non-stop over the Pacific Ocean (it took off from Misawa), as well as the first prototype of the modern-day, best-selling business jet: Hondajet. The second floor is dedicated to space, and there’s a model of the Hayabusa spacecraft, which famously landed on an asteroid to collect rock samples. From the terrace of the museum one can watch the fighter jets and helicopters taking off from the nearby base.

From Misawa it was a straight drive north to the Shimokita Peninsula, the topmost part of Honshu. The eastern point is Shiriyazaki Cape, which hosts the eponymoous white lighthouse. It’s 128 stairs up to the top, which provides beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean and the surrounding countryside. The area is also a grazing area for horses and cattle, which one can see up close while driving to the cape.

Although it was mid afternooon when I was done with the cape, I was a little tired, so I retired early to my hotel in Mutsu, the only sizeable city (pop. 55,000) in the peninsula, for an early dinner of sushi and an early night.

Day 5: Mutsu > Osorezan > Yagen Onsen > Oma > Hotokegaura > Mutsu

The skies really opened up today. It rained heavily, nonstop, all day. It’s a good thing I had planned a day of mostly driving, but the short visits to each place I stopped at along the way meant I was drenched several times…

First stop was Bodai-Ji Temple at Osorezan (I drove through the observatory first, but all I saw was clouds). This large Buddhist temple sits in the caldera of an active volcano and is thought to be one of the gateways to the underworld. The mountain emits hot volcanic gases, so the entire experience is accompanied by a strong smell of sulphur dioxide (think rotten eggs). Beyond the main temple building are various small shrines, which require a climb through eerily somber landscapes.

Further north in the Shimokita peninsula is Yagen Onsen, a small (very small) village with several hot springs. I visited the Kappa no Yu onsen, a bit further up the road. There are two external baths, for each gender, overlooking the Ohata River. I was mostly alone in the onsen, a wonderful experience given the nonstop rain and slightly chilly air.

The northernmost tip of the main island of Japan, Honsu, is Cape Oma. There’s a small monument designating this point, and that’s pretty much it. The winds here were incredibly strong, and the rain was coming in horizontal sheets of water. All I managed to do was run up to the monument for a quick photo before returning to the car (and changing my clothes). The experience reminded me of the northermost tip of Japan (Cape Nosappu in Hokkaido), which I visited a few years ago. It wasn’t raining then, but it was equally windswept.

Driving down the western coast of Shimokita I arrived at Hotokegaura. This is a series of rock formations along some cliffs facing the Mutsu Bay (connecting the Pacific Ocean with the Sea of Japan). From the parking lot is a 20-minute walk down a forested path, a mix of a trail and wooden stairs, to the sea level. It’s not an easy path (especially the way back up), but it’s manageable. Again, given the heavy rain, I was all alone.

Back to my second night in Mutsu. Tonight was the first night of the Tanabu Festival. The rain did not deter the celebrations, with the portable colorful shrines (mikoshi) making their way slowly through the streets, surrounded by dancers and music players.

Day 6: Mutsu > Aomori > Hakodate

I drove from Mutsu to the shinkansen station at Shin-Aomori and returned the car. Then I boarded the Hayabusa Shinkansen to Shin Hakodate Hokuto station (opened in 2016). The ride is about one hour, and the train passes the 54km Seikan tunnel connecting Honshu and Hokkaido. There is a connecting JR train that goes to Hakodate Station. I checked in and went for a quick tour of the area before Shabbat.

Hakodate is one of the first two ports in Japan to open up to the world after the uninvited visit by Commodore Matthew Perry in 1854. Hence, like Kobe, Yokohama, and Nagasaki, it was home to a large foreign community. I took the tram to the port area, and visited the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse. From there I walked up and down the slopes of the Motomachi area of town, which is dotted with churches of various denominations and foreign buildings such as consulates and residences. Especially famous is Hachiman Zaka slope, but every slope has its own charm.

Day 7: Hakodate

This being Shabbat, I took it easy in the morning, but then spent the afternoon walking around town. I took in some of the sights I missed yesterday, but of course no photos… The Old Public Hall was so beautiful, I returned there in the evening to take some photos. I also saw the statue of Commodore Perry, erected in memory of his visit to Hakodate. Then I took the ropeway up to the summit of Mount Hakodate, to take in the night view. This is one of Japan’s Three Night Views (日本三大夜景), the other two being Kobe/Osaka (from Mount Rokko) and Nagasaki (from Mount Inasa).

Day 7: Hakodate > Aomori

Early Sunday morning I visited the tiny Foreigners’ Cemetery, at the edge of the former foreigner residence area, facing the bay. Two of Commodore Perry’s sailors are buried here. The cemetery was locked, but it’s so tiny one can see it all from the gate.

It was a beautiful day, with sunny clear skies, so I headed to the observatory on top of Goryokaku Tower, overlooking Goryokoku Park, site of the old western-style fort. It offers a full 360 view of Hakodate. The observatory has two floors, a few meters apart; for some reason everyone congregates on the top floor, leaving the bottom floor empty. Same views…

Before leaving Hakodate I visited the Morning Market next to the station, which was teeming with people examining a mind-boggling variety of seafood. Some of the sashimi and sushi on sale looked absolutely delicious, but I couldn’t bring myself to eat raw fish at 9am. The early hour didn’t seem to deter everyone else there.

I took the Shinkansen back to Aomori. This is the place to mention (again) the fabulous, unparalleled public transportation system in Japan. The train I boarded was bound for Tokyo, 800km away, and would complete the journey in 4 hours and 20 minutes. Incredible.

Aomori city is remote, and it takes its remoteness seriously. You can cover the main sightseeing sites in a few hours, all within a short walking distance. I visited the A-Factory shopping outlet (a grand name for what would pass as one shop in a big city mall). I then toured the Hakkodamaru Memorial Ship, anchored at the port. Before the tunnel was dug, ferries were the only way to travel between Honshu and Hokkaido, and this ferry is a monument to this age of ferry glory. The ship is worth visiting not only for the trip back in time, but also for the trip back in time from a museum perspective. It looks like none of the exhibits were changed since the 1980s, when the museum was built. A fascinating experience.

A short walk (3 minutes away) is the Nebuta Museum, a much more modern affair, dedicated to the annual festival (matsuri) of Aomori, that attracts tourists every summer (it was held two weeks ago). This festival is famous for the parade of enourmous and very elaborate floats, accompanied by huge taiko drums and dancers. The floats, made of paper, depict gods, demons, and historical figures. They take a year to build, and are destroyed at the end of the festival, except for a few which are displayed at this museum.

I wanted to have a late lunch at Aomori Nokkedon, where you can buy a bowl of rice and walk around to fill it with fresh seafood. But at 3pm the place was closed. Either it didn’t open on Sunday or, as the website warns, they close down when they run out of rice… So instead I had an early dinner at a great sushi restaurant, and retired for my daily soak in the hotel onsen.

Day 7: Aomori > Kobe

That’s it. After a lazy morning in Aomori, a final dip in the hotel onsen and a short walk around town, I headed to the airport to take the flight back from to Kobe, ending another wonderful trip in beautiful Japan.

Shikoku Trip – Day 6 – Kochi to Kobe

Route: Kochi > Awaji > Kobe

Drive: 390km; Walk: 0km

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• Day 4
• Day 5
• Day 6

The last day was basically a long drive back home.

I started the day with a quick visit to Godaisan, a modest mountain east of Kochi, home of Chikurinji Temple, built by visiting Buddhist priests from China (and no. 31 on the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage route). There’s a five-storied pagoda on the grounds, but otherwise this temple has no notable features. Next to the temple is a botanical garden, but at this early hour it was still closed.

Chikurinji Temple

This time I drove back through central Kochi to the eastern side of Shikoku island, and crossed back to Honshu through Awaji Island. As I’ve been to Awaji before (see here), and time was of the essence (this being Friday, I didn’t stop for any sightseeing. But one has to stop somewhere on such a long drive, and since Awaji is famous for its onions, I stopped at Uzu Hill Park in the southern tip of the island. This is basically a facility built around the theme of onions: a big shop with countless onion-based products, an onion-hamburger stand, a couple of restaurants, various exhibits, and a huge onion statue overlooking the Onaruto bridge (which connects Awaji and Shikoku).

From there it was a straight line on the Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway, leading to the famous Akashi Kaikyou Bridge, which boasts the longest suspension bridge span in the world (at almost 2km).

To summarize: 1,400km driven; 77km walked; thousands of stairs climbed; 4km by boat.

Shikoku Trip – Day 5 – Kochi to Shimanto and back

Route: Kochi > Shimanto River > Cape Ashizuri > Kochi

Drive: 300km; Walk: 5km

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The plan was to spend the morning walking around Kochi city, and then maybe drive a bit around the area. But it was raining when I woke up, so I changed the plan and decided to take a long drive to reach the southernmost point of Shikoku island. This area of Koshi prefecture is called Shimanto, and it is as spectacularly beautiful as it is remote.

Around Shimanto

On the way down south, I detoured to the town of Saga. The attraction was the Chinkabashi, or submersible bridges, over the Shimanto river. These bridges were built with no rails or balustrades, so that when the river runs high they offer no resistance to the flow of water and simply sink below water level. I braved driving across the longest one, the Sada Chinkabashi, almost 300 meters. The first crossing was a little unnerving, but the second one (I had to return) was a bit better.

Sada Chinkabashi

I then continued all the way down to Cape Ashizuri, the end of Shikoku island. The last stretch of road (about 50km) is dubbed ‘Ashizuri Sunny Road’, and the sun was indeed finally making an appearance There’s an observation deck offering nice view of the Pacific Ocean and the nearby lighthouse. Around the deck are short walking trails that crisscross a dense forest of subtropical plants, with many varieties of camellia trees (sadly, it was too early for them to flower). The trails provide occasional views of the ocean. The entrance to the cape is dominated by the statue of Nakahama (John) Manjiro, who in 1841 was rescued from a wrecked ship at the age of 14 and spent a few years growing up in America. His knowledge of English and America were instrumental when Commodore Perry showed up unannounced in Japan in 1853.

Cape Ashizuri

A short walking distance from the cape is the impressive Kongofukuji Temple (no. 38 in the 88-temple pilgrimage trail of Shikoku). The temple has buildings in various styles, and tons of statues, mainly of Senju Kannon Bosatsu.

Konkofukuji Temple

On the drive out of the cape, there’s a small building called the John Manjiro Footbath. One can soak one’s tired feet in hot water, while admiring the views of the rock formations down in the ocean below. Small towels are available for 100 yen. This provided a relaxing break before my long drive back to Kochi city.

John Manjiro Footbath

Just before turning in for the day, I stopped by Hirome Market, a lively indoor market in the center of Kochi. Most of the shops were closed by this time (early evening), but the Izakayas and other food places were doing brisk business. The Omicron variant is only now rearing its ugly head in Japan, so I guess people are making the most of it before the next wave.

Hirome Market

Shikoku Trip – Day 4 – Iya Valley to Kochi

Route: Iya Valley > Nakatsu Gorge > Yusuhara > Kochi

Drive: 220km; Walk: 7km

• Day 1
• Day 2
• Day 3
• Day 4
• Day 5
• Day 6

Started the day late, after another soak in the onsen. I drove from Iya Valley down south to Kochi prefecture. After 25 years of visiting and living in Japan, Kochi prefecture is the last prefecture (there are 47 in total) that I haven’t been to yet. So today marks an important landmark in my Japan travels.

My first stop in Kochi prefecture was Nakatsu Gorge. This isolated gorge, which was also very empty (I saw only one family of three walking around), provides beautiful views of rocky cliff faces and small waterfalls. The gorge itself is filled with huge rock boulders, and walking it is a combination of rocky flat surfaces, stepping stones, short bridges, and stone stairs. The gorge is apparently sacred, and there are several statues strewn alongside the path (the sign says they represent gods of fortune). The total walk to the end and back takes about one hour.

Nakatsu Gorge

I then took a long detour around central Kochi prefecture, before circling back to Kochi city. I did this in order to visit a small town in the prefecture: Yusuhara. It’s a beautiful town, up in the mountains (its nickname is Kumo-no-Ue, above the clouds), with one main street. But what makes it unique is that many buildings here were designed by famous architect Kengo Kuma, known also for his work with woodwork. The town hall, a hotel, the visitor center, the community library, and other buildings give the town a distinctive look. For a town with a population of about 3,500, the library is an impressive edifice; I wish I had access to such a beautiful library… The woodwork inside the library is reminiscent of another Kuma creation: the Starbucks at Daizafu in Kyushu (which I visited two years ago).

Yusuhara

I then drove back east to Kochi city, and after checking in and soaking in hot water to relax from the long drive, I took a short stroll around the city center. Harimaya Bridge, a small vermilion bridge over a man-made stream, is a popular spot for photos, as it is the setting of a legendary love story between a local woman and monk (commemorated with a small white statue). The small park around the bridge, with the new year illuminations, made for a pleasant evening walk.

Kochi City Center

Shikoku Trip – Day 3 – Iya Valley

Route: Around Iya Valley

Drive: 125km (and about 4km boat ride; Walk: 4km

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The plan for today was to wander around Iya Valley, taking in a few of the sights along the river running at the bottom of this long, meandering valley at the center of the island. The weather was not so good: near freezing temperatures with overcast skies and occasional light snow.

My first destination was Oku-Iya Niju Kazurabashi, a double vine bridge over the river. Apparently, there’s a ‘husband’ bridge (44m long) and a ‘wife’ bridge (half as long), which served feudal clans, but are reinforced with steel today. But I never got to see them… When I got to this remote area, perched almost 1,000m high on Mount Tsurugi, I was faced with a sign saying the bridges are closed down for repairs.

Iya Valley (and the closed Oku-Iya Niji Kazurabashi)

So I drove back west on Route 439 to reach Nagoro village, also known as ‘scarecrow village’. This tiny village – really only a few houses scattered along the road – has more than 200 scarecrows “inhabiting” it, many more than the humans living here (or so they say, because I didn’t see a breathing soul). Apparently, a long-time villager by the name of Ayano Tsukimi was fed up with the declining population of the village – a sight common in ageing Japan – and decided to “populate” it with straw, lifelike dolls. These dolls now tend the fields, wait in bus stops, work in the fields, and attend the (now closed) local school. Walking around this place is an experience that is as fascinating as it is creepy.

Nagoro (Scarecrow) Village

With the remote vine bridges closed, I had no choice but to visit the more touristy Oku-Iya Kazurabashi (vine bridge). This bridge is much larger and sturdier, about 45m long, attached to huge cedar trees, and requiring a steep admission fee (considering it takes less than 2 minutes to cross). Next to the bridge is a quaint visitor center, which shows how the vines are made and how the bridge is built (it is renewed every 3 years). A small nearby waterfall completes the Kazurabashi experience.

Iya Kazurabashi (Vine Bridge)

A short drive up the hill from Kazurabashi one stumbles upon a small statue of a peeing boy. Some signs designate it as the local Manneken Pis, named after the famous Brussels fountain. The story is that the small rock the statue stands on proved irresistible to testosterone-producing humans, who felt the need to urinate down the steep rock cliff. People throw 1-yen coins on this rock. Go figure.

Statue of the Peeing Boy

After wandering a bit more up the hills, taking hairpin turns and negotiating tight one-lane roads with bi-directional traffic, I headed back down to Oboke Gorge. This gorge boasts steep, jagged rocky walls and very clear waters. After some deliberation, I braved the cold weather and took a 30-minute boat ride along the gorge, which offers close views of the rocks.

Oboke Gorge River Boat

Frozen from this short boat ride I decided to head back to the hotel. The hot waters of the onsen were calling…

Shikoku Trip – Day 2 – Takamatsu to Iya Valley

Route: Takamatsu > Marugame > Kotohira > Iya Valley

Drive: 90km; Walk: 14km (including about 1,000 stairs)

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I spent the morning walking around Takamatsu. I walked through the famous shopping arcades of Takamatsu (supposedly the longest in Japan), which were deserted at this early hour. I reached Takamatsu Castle; the grounds are mostly a park today, as the castle itself was bombed by Americans in WWII. Admission was free, this being the last day of the New Year holidays. I climbed to the top of the Tsukimi Tower, which offers nice views of the grounds and the surrounding area.

Takamatsu Castle Grounds

From the castle I continued north to the pier and the Sunport area. Bikers were congregating in small groups (by bike type, I guess) to admire each other’s bikes and discuss them at length. Ferry boats made their way slowly in and out of the pier.

Takamatsu Pier

A quick taxi ride back to the center of the city and I was at Ritsurin Garden, a sprawling oasis of tranquility at the heart of the city. It dates back to the 18th century, built by the feudal lords who ruled the area, and opened to the public after the Meiji Restoration (late 19th century). The southern part of the garden is in traditional Japanese style, while the northern part is more western in appearance. I strolled around for more than one hour. Choosing which photos to upload was difficult, as every angle offers a pleasingly picturesque view.

Ritsurin Garden

From Takamatsu I drove the short distance to Marugame, mainly to see the castle there. What makes it unique is that it is one of the few castles that survived the feudal wars and WWII bombings. The castle is reached via a short but steep winding road, but the walk is worth it for the views from the top. There is also a small souvenir shop, where some old ladies make handmade fans in alluring designs.

Marugame Castle

From Marugame I drove south to Kotohira, home of Kotohira-gu shrine, also known as Konpira-san. This is where I finally hit the crowds… Konpira-san is a major Shinto shrine, and this being the last day of the holidays, the masses flocked to perform the traditional Hatsumode shrine visit. After paying their respects to the deities, everyone lines up to buy an Omikuji – a folded up piece of paper that is supposed to predict how lucky this year will be. There are 735 stairs to reach the main shrine, and they are lined with hundreds of shops offering gifts and food. The smell of Amazake, the traditional sweet fermented rice drink sold in the new year, wafted in the air. There were so many people, the staff had to regulate the flow by groups. Originally I planned to continue on to two more shrines up the hill (another 600 steps or so), but I was worn out by the crowds and decided to walk back down after reaching the main shrine.

Konpira-san Shrine

The sun was setting down by the time I returned to my rental car, so I headed south to Oboke, in Iya Valley, where I was booked at an onsen hotel. After all those stairs, soaking in the hot water was pure bliss.

Shikoku Trip – Day 1 – Kobe to Takamatsu

Route: Kobe > Washuzan Observation Deck > Seto Ohashi Memorial Park > Mount Yashima > Takamatsu

Drive: 275km; Walk: 11km

• Day 1
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• Day 3
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• Day 5
• Day 6

There are two main routes from Kobe to Takamatsu. The quickest route is through the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and Awaji Island. The slightly longer route is through Okayama and Great Setou Bridge. I picked the latter because I wanted to see and drive the Great Setou Bridge

My first stop was the Washuzan Observation Deck, which offers great views of the bridge from the north, i.e. from Honshu Island. A walking trail from the parking area leads to various observation points, each higher than the previous, culminating with a view directly on top the bridge itself.

Great Setou Bridge – From Honshu Side

After crossing the bridge, I stopped at the memorial park commemorating the building of this bridge; or rather, a series of 11 bridges (total about 13km). It took a decade to complete, and a plaque denotes it as a sister bridge to the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco.

Great Setou Bridge – From Shikoku Side

To watch the sun set over Takamatsu, the capital of Kagawa prefecture, I drove up Mount Yashima, just east of the city. On top of the mountain is the Yashima-ji Temple, one of Shikoku’s 88 pilgrimage temples. The weather was nice and clear, so the views of the harbor, the city and the setting sun were a beautiful ending to this day.

Tohoku Road Trip: Sendai to Aomori

Seeking cooler weather in the insufferable Japanese summer, I spent this year’s Obon week (a traditional holiday in the middle of August) in the Tohoku region of northern Japan. Weather was hot initially, but then, thanks to a typhoon passing over Western Japan, most days were thankfully much cooler.

Below is a description of my itinerary, a total drive of 1,250km in one week. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment here, or email me.

 

Day 1: Yamagata Prefecture > Sendai

Day 2: Sendai City

Day 3: Miyagi Prefecture to Iwate Prefecture

Day 4: Iwate Prefecture > Akita Prefecture

Days 5-6: Akita Prefecture

Day 7: Akita > Aomori Prefecture

Day 1: Yamagata Prefecture to Sendai

I flew from Itami aiport in Osaka to Sendai airport, picked my rental car, and headed west to Yamagata Prefecture. In the first half day I visited two spots there:

Yamadera. In the mountains to the north of Yamagata City is Yamadera, a small village famous for the eponymous Buddhist temple located up in the mountain overlooking the village. The temple  (official name: Risshakuji) is more than a thousand years old, and to get to it one needs to climb about 1,000 stairs. The temperature down in the valley was higher than 30c, but the stairs wind up through a thick forest so the temperature drops somewhat (unfortunately the humidity does not).

The most essential item here in summer (after liquids) is a small towel, to wipe the sweat off the face every minute or so, while uttering desperate cries of atsui ne! (“it’s hot, isn’t it?”). I forgot my small towel in the car but bought one in a gift shop before starting the climb. The heat and humidity made me think about deserting halfway to the top, but I looked around and saw a multitude of octogenarians climbing stoically beside me, so I didn’t dare give up… There are several other temples along the way, as well as an interesting rock formation into which visitors wedge coins.

The climb is worth it. Although the temple itself is not overwhelming (aside from its old age), the view of the valley from Godaido Hall, an open wooden terrace at the top, is breathtaking. Unhindered by any building or trees, the breeze up there is also a most welcome bonus after the climb.

Statuettes at Yamadera

The climb up to Yamadera

Coins inserted into the rock

Yamadera village – View from Yamadera temple

Ginzan Onsen. Further north is the onsen (hot spring) town of Ginzan (“silver mountain”), so named after a silver mine that used to operate here. The center of this tiny town is a pedestrian-only area, and is very picturesque. Old wooden houses, most of them ryokans (Japanese-style hotels) and restaurants line up the sides of the main street, at the center of which runs a small, steaming stream.

My intent was to soak in one of the two public baths here. But I arrived a few minutes before 5pm, only to find out that the baths close at 5pm… What a disappointment! I had to make do with the foot bath in the center of the town. As dusk approached, the gas lights along the street lit up, and the ryokan guests strolled up and down in their yukatas (traditional robes) and gettas (wooden sandals) searching for a place to have dinner. It must be extra beautiful here in winter, when the entire place is covered in snow.

Ginzan onsen entrance

Ginzan onsen view

An old building at Ginzan onsen

When done at Ginzan Onsen, I retraced my route back to Sendai, to arrive at my hotel in the center of the city.

Day 2: Sendai City

Sendai is the major city in Miyagi prefecture. With a population of just over 1 million, it is the 2nd largest city north of Tokyo. The first thing that strikes a visitor is the number and size of trees that line up the main avenues in the center of the city. These majestic zeikova trees have given Sendai the nickname mori-no miyako (“city of forest/trees”). In summer, Sendai is most famous for the Tanabata Festival, but I missed it by one week so I spent the day taking in the major sightseeing sites.

AER Building Observatory. After my morning coffee at the beautifully decorated Tullys Coffee in front of Sendai Station, I crossed the street to take the elevator up to the 31st floor of the AER building, which is next to the station. The free observatory offers views of the city from high up in three directions, so it’s a good way to start (or end) the exploration of the city.

AER building

View of shinkansen tracks from AER building

Daikannon Statue. Standing at 100m northwest of the city, the Daikannon Statue is a permanent feature of Sendai. Because it’s on a hill, you can see it from almost anywhere in the city. Kannon (or Guanyin in Chinese) is a Buddhist female bodhisattva, revered throughout Asia. This godzilla-sized white statue (purportedly the 6th tallest statue in the world) holds a water flask in her hand (symbolizing the water of wisdom) and what looks like a ball in the other hand. Most bizarrely, the necklace around her neck is the Magen David (Star of David), an hexagram which later became the symbol of Judaism (and appears on the flag of Israel). People who wish to get married come to Kannon to pray, and behind the statue is a small temple where they hang up their wishes for a good partner.

Daikannon statue

Entrance to Daikannon statue

Prayers for marriage

Rinnoji Temple. Not to be confused with the eponymous temple in Nikko, Sendai’s Rinnoji temple boasts a beautiful Japanese garden and a pagoda. Founded in the 15th century by the Date clan (that ruled the area for a long time), it is a great place to wander around and relax from the bustle of the city.

Rinnoji temple

At Rinnoji temple

The bell at Rinnoji temple

Osaki Hachimangu Shrine. Moving from Buddhism to Shinto, the Osaki Hachimangu Shrine was also founded by the Date clan, highlighting the laissez-faire attitude of Japanese theology (basically, anything goes). Hachiman is the deity of war and therefore the protector of the city. The shrine is lacquered in vivid colors, and some of the omikuji (fortune-telling papers) sold here are black, something I’ve never seen before. There was a practice going on for some ritual, with musicians, singers and beautifully-clad dancers.

Entrance to Osaki Hachiman shrine

Dancers practicing at Osaki Hachiman shrine

Daruma dolls at Osaki Hachiman shrine

Jozenji-Dori / Ichibancho. Back to the center of the city, I took a walk after lunch through the main thoroughfares and shopping streets. As in many other Japaneses cities, these covered shoten-gais (shopping streets) run for several blocks and intersect with each other, making it a shopping heaven for locals and visitors alike. With an approaching typhoon threatening Western Japan, the weather had cooled down considerably, so walking around was quite pleasant considering this is mid-August in Japan…

A barber shop that will make you handsome

Entrance to a shop at Ichibancho

Segafredo cafe at Ichibancho

Zuihoden. The founding feudal lord of the aforementioned Date clan, Date Masamune, built a mausoleum for his family in Sendai, called Zuihoden. Several buildings and burial sites dot this hillside complex and it was a fitting end to my day of wanderings in Sendai.

Entrance to Zuihoden

At Zuihoden grounds

Day 3: Miyagi Prefecture > Iwate Prefecture

Got up early today to head north, as I knew there would be a lot of driving to do. It was cloudy with the occasional downpour (Sendai got the northern “side” of they typhoon).

Matsushima Bay. Just outside Sendai, on the Pacific coast, lies Matsushima Bay. The bay has many small, forested islets and the view from the shore is so beautiful that it’s been voted as one of Japan’s top three scenic views (alongside Miyajima in Hiroshima, and Amanohashidate in Kyoto). Cruises that tour the bay are available, but I didn’t have time for that (and it was cloudy and foggy anyway), so instead I walked across a small bridge (reconstructed after the 2011 tsunami) onto Oshima Island. As I was there early I had this island to myself and took a leisurely walk among the pine trees to take photos of the bay.

Matsushima itself is a pretty touristy, with many shops and restaurants (and Chinese tourists). The symbol of this small town is the Godaido Buddhist temple, easily accessible from the main street. The temple contains five statues, but these are apparently displayed to the public only once every few 33 years for some obscure reason. Surprisingly, the temple – which is located on an exposed islet – did not suffer any major damage during earthquake and tsunami.

Bridge to Oshima island

Matsushima bay

Matsushima bay

Lanterns at Godaido temple

Ishinomaki. This medium-sized city has nothing to offer to tourists, but it became a symbol of the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami. I drove up to Hiyoriyama Park, that overlooks the coastal area where the massive tsunami waves came in. It is a huge construction site, although new bylaws prevent the building of houses there (only businesses). Unbeknownst to me, this was to be a preview of what I would see during the entire course of the day, while driving from Miyagi to Iwate: kilometer after kilometer of construction sites, to rebuild the incomprehensible damage caused by this natural disaster, that claimed the lives of more than 18,000 people and caused life-changing traumas to countless more.

View from Hiyoriyama park

Construction at Ishinomaki bay

Okawa Elementary School. Perhaps the most remembered tragedy of the tsunami is the Okawa Elementary School, located north of the city. It saw the deaths of more than 80 pupils and their teachers, who were covered by the waves of the tsunami that struck on March 11th, just after 3:30pm. Last year I read the book ‘Ghosts of the Tsunami’, by British journalist Richard Lloyd Parry, which tells the story of this tragedy and its aftermath (the families, the legal battle for compensation). Many believe that the children could have been saved, had the teachers led them up the hill behind the school after the earthquake struck and before the tsunami wave arrived. The gutted school building remains standing, as an overbearingly sad memorial to the young souls that were lost here.

At Oakawa elementary school

Stools in a classroom

Blackboard and flowers

Statue erected on the grounds of Oakawa elementary school

Kesennuma. Another symbol of the 2011 tsunami is the fishing port city of Kesennuma, which sustained heavy damage and is still being rebuilt. Many ships were carried inland here by the unstoppable force of the tsunami wave. I stopped here to walk around the port area and have a coffee at the iconic K-Port Cafe. This restaurant-cafe was founded by famous Japanese actor Ken Watanabe (‘The Last Samurai’, ‘Godzilla’, ‘Transformers’), to support the resurrection of Kesennuma from the devastation of the tsunami. It was designed by renowned Japanese architect Toyo Ito. Letters from Watanabe are displayed in the cafe, for patrons to read. To the north of Kesennuma is Mount Anbasan, which offers nice views of the city and the port.

K-Port cafe at Kesennuma

Kesennuma port after the reconstruction

Kesennuma from mount Anbasan

Miracle Pine. Further up north, near the small city of Rikuzentakata, stands a lone pine tree, dubbed the ‘Miracle Pine’. The city was basically wiped off the map by the tsunami, and it is now being rebuilt but raised by about 10 meters. The shore had more than 70,000 pine trees, and this one tree was the only one that survived the power of the waves. Standing 27 meters tall, the tree died about two years after the tsunami, and was preserved and reinstalled as a symbol of perseverance and hope. It now stands surrounded by a vast area of reconstruction, and many tourists walk the nearby road to take a look at this tree.

The Miracle Pine amid the reconstruction

Goishi Coast. My last stop for the day, before spending the night near Ofunato, was Goishi coast. An observation area provides stunning views of the rocky waterline, with the waves rushing in between the rocky formations and creating a marvelous combination of views and sounds.

Goishi coast

Goishi coast

A note about driving in this area of Tohoku. Because of the tsunami, old roads are being repaved and new roads are being paved. This means that navigation systems that rely on periodic map updates are quite useless. My car had such a system, and after a while I realized I need to check the itinerary with Google Maps, which is much more up to date. For example, the main route going north from Miyagi through Iwate is route 45, but now there’s a new expressway (E45), which runs more or less in parallel, and is toll-free.

Day 4: Iwate Prefecture > Akita Prefecture

Started early again today, as I was planning another long driving day along the Sanriku Coast, famous for its scenic views, especially cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Turned out to be shorter than expected, reason below.

Jodogahama Beach (Miyako). Driving up the coast from Ofunato, I reached Miyako, another name many recall from the news in 2011. I headed to Jodogahama beach, which is a forested area which has several short hiking paths, that lead to observation points and to the beach itself, which is mostly a pebble beach. It was quite foggy so the view was partial. There is a boat cruise that takes you to a ‘blue cave’ and offers views of the cliffs from the ocean, but there were many people waiting so I gave it a pass.

Wall built to contain tsunami waves

Jodogahama beach

Overlooking foggy Jodogahama beach

Kitayamazaki Coast. The shoreline north of Miyako is famous for its cliffs, so I headed to the first one: Unosu Cliff. There’s a car park south of the cliffs, and then a 15-minute walk though the forest to the observation deck. When I got there, this was the view:

Foggy view from Unosu cliff

 

It was then I realized that this was not the day to see Kitayamazaki Coast… I gave up on my drive north, and instead headed west.

Ryusendo Cave. About an hour from the coast is the town of Iwaizumi, famous for its limestone caves. Ryusendo is the largest of them, and one of the most impressive caves in Japan. It is a labyrinth of caverns that run deep into the rocky mountain. Only a short section is open to the public, and the public turned out in droves to see it. The temperature inside drops to around 10c, a welcome relief from the heat outside, but it quickly becomes quite chilly. The 700 meter long path inside the mountain is at times very narrow and at times quite wide. The most interesting feature are the three underground ‘lakes’ that can be viewed from the top. They are lit from within with colored lights, which makes for quite a surreal experience. The water is very clear.

Inside Ryusendo cave

Looking down at an underground lake in Ryusendo cave

Morioka. The largest city in Iwate (population 300,000), Morioka sits more or less in the center of Tohoku, between the two coasts. There’s nothing much to do here, and as I was here before (as a base for visiting Kakunodate, the samurai town, during cherry blossom season), I didn’t linger for long. I took a stroll through Iwate Park, where the former castle stood, and visited the local courthouse to see the rock-breaking cherry tree (ishiwarizakura). This 400 year old tree grows out of a huge granite rock, and is so extensive it needs various wooden poles to support its sprawling branches. It must be quite awesome when it blooms.

The rock-breaking cherry tree in Morioka

Lake Tazawa. Further east into Akita prefecture is lake Tazawa, or Tazawako. It’s a large caldera lake with beautifully blue waters. It is Japan’s deepest lake: 423 meters. I drove around the lake, making two stops: the Goza-no-ishi Shrine and the Statue of Tatsuko. The former is an unassuming shrine overlooking the water. The second is a golden statue of a woman. The local legend is that this beautiful young lady prayed for eternal beauty but instead she turned into a dragon and drowned to the bottom of the lake (the Japanese version of Loch Ness I guess). Completing my tour around the lake I headed to my hotel in the mountains, to relax in the local onsen.

Torii of Goza-no-Ishi shrine on Lake Tazawa

Goza-no-Ishi Shrine on Lake Tazawa

Statue of Tatsuko on Lake Tazawa

Days 5-6: Akita Prefecture

Today I planned a day of soaking in hot water. I headed up the mountain above Tazawako, to the Nyuto Onsen area (the name means ‘nipple’, and is apparently derived from the shape of the mountain). There are many ryokans here that offer a day pass to try their hot springs. So I did an “onsen crawl”, sampling four places. Entrance fees for each onsen are 600-800 Yen, and they are typically open from around 10am to 5pm.

Ganiba Onsen. This is a relatively modern ryokan that has both indoor and outdoor baths. The outdoor bath is a short walk into the woods, beyond a small stream. Understandably, photography is not allowed in these places, but as I was alone here (opening time is 9am, and I was there first), I managed to take a photo of the rotemburo (open air bath). The water here is clear. and the experience of bathing in nature is pretty authentic.

Rotemburo (outdoor hot spring) at Ganiba onsen

Tae-no-Yu. This is an upscale ryokan and the facilities are very nice. Again, both indoor and outdoor baths. The open air one has two baths: a small clear one, and a murky, yellowish one. They both overlook a three-step waterfall, which makes for a pleasant backdrop while soaking. It started raining a bit when I was here, always a welcome addition when soaking in outdoor onsens.

Slippers at entrance to Tae-no-Yu

Kuro-yu. This one is quite remote and you need to walk down a path from the car park to get to the old ryokan. The bath complex is behind the hotel, with a small indoor bath and a small outdoor one. The scenery here is not remarkable and the place looks a little run down.

Entrance to Kuro-Yu

Tsuru-no-Yu. This is the oldest onsen in the area, more than 300 years old. It’s quite popular and was the busiest one I visited. Access is up a 3km road up the forested mountain, which at parts is nothing but a narrow gravel track. There are a few small indoor baths, but the real attraction here is the big rotemburo which features milky water and a floor covered with black pebbles. There were perhaps 15 bathers here, but still there was ample room for each one. It was raining pretty heavily by now, so the experience was perfect.

Entrance to Tsuru-no-Yu

Feeling perfectly clean and relaxed I left the Nyuto Onsen area to drive down to Akita, the main city in Akita prefecture (population 315,000).

I spent Shabbat at Akita city, staying at – you guessed correctly – a hotel with an onsen. During Shabbat I took a short walk around the central area of the city, which basically means the train station and Senshu Park, site of a former castle. Akita truly is a small city…

Day 7: Akita Prefecture > Aomori Prefecture

For my last day, I drove up the coast on route 101 from Akita towards Aomori Prefecture. The scenery was rice paddies on the right and a rocky coastline dotted with camping sites on the left.

Noshiro. My first stop was Noshiro, a sleepy town about 60km north of Akita. I stopped there only because the wife of a friend of mine is originally from here, so I snapped a few photos for him. Funnily enough, right next to the train station is the ‘Noshiro Tourist Information Center’. It was closed, so I guess I’ll never know what tourists can do in Noshiro.

At Noshiro port

At Noshiro port

Nihon Canyon and Juniko. Further up the coast, and after entering Aomori Prefecture, is Juniko. As the name implies, it is a collection of twelve small lakes and ponds (ju-ni is 12). The road from the coast to Juniko winds up the mountain, and is closed during winter. But my first stop before reaching the lakes, was Nihon Canyon, a mini (really mini, really really mini) version of Grand Canyon I guess. From the small car park it’s a short (0.5km) but steep climb up a narrow walking trail to an observation platform which provides a view of the rock face. I was there all alone and it felt extremely peaceful and quiet… except for the cicadas of course. A short drive from here are the Juniko lakes. Frankly, not much to write home about, so I didn’t stay long.

The entrance to the trail leading to Nihon Canyon

Nihon Canyon

My original plan was to drive from here to Aomori City and wander around a bit before heading to the airport. But after my experience at Akita City, I feared that another small, rural town would now have to offer much (and the online guides indeed did not have much to say about Aomori). So instead I headed to Hirosaki.

Hirosaki is a small town that has a castle (well, technically, only one keep) at its center. But the redeeming feature of this place is the lovely Fujita Memorial Garden, adjacent to the castle grounds. This garden was built about 100 years ago and is divided into two sections. In the upper section is a typical Japanese landscape garden with a tea house. The lower section has a small waterfall and a pond with koi (carp) swimming around. There were only a few people around, so despite the oppressive heat (32c) and humidity, it was a nice place to wind down after my load road trip, before heading to Aomori airport for my flight back to Osaka.

Hirosaki castle keep

Fujita Memorial Garden

Fujita Memorial Garden

Fujita Memorial Garden

One last word of caution for those returning a rental car at Aomori airport. The closest gas stations are about 8-10km from the airport. I made the mistake of thinking there must be gas stations at, or near, the airport. There weren’t any, so I had to head back out for refueling.

Kyushu: Miyazaki to Oita

Seeking warmer weather, I spent this year’s end-of-year holidays in Kyushu. This time, on the eastern side of the island, Miyazaki and Oita prefectures. I didn’t find much warmer weather, but I did find a beautiful corner of Japan I had not visited previously.

This was my itinerary (clicking on a day will take you to the relevant section). If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or email me:

Days 1-2: Miyazaki City

Day 3: Miyazaki > Nichinan > Cape Ito

Day 4: Sekino-o > Tsumagirishima > Saito > Mimitsu > Hyuga

Day 5: Tachihiko > Mount Aso > Yufuin

Days 6-7: Yufuin > Beppu > Kitsuki > Oita

Day 1: Miyazaki City

I flew from Kansai Airport (KIX) to Miyazaki Airport (KMI) on Peach Aviation, the LCC subsidiary of ANA. At check-in, I was asked politely by the attendant “if I would mind” sitting in the emergency row. I believe this is the first time in my life someone asked me this, without me asking first… Of course I said yes. It’s a very short flight (less than 1 hour) but the extra leg room is always welcome.

Miyazaki City is the capital of the prefecture, and with a population of 400,000 it is a small city, even by Kyushu standards (7th largest on the island). The only reason I spent 3 nights here was because I had to stay put for Shabbat somewhere, and my schedule dictated it be Miyazaki.

I spent Friday visiting the main sightseeing spots, and Saturday walking along the Oyodo River. Trains are not an option here (there is only one line crossing the city and trains are infrequent), so it’s either buses, bicycle or walking. I chose the latter as the distances are not big and the sunny (yet brisk) weather was conducive to walking.

My hotel was centrally located, on the main thoroughfare, Tachibana Street. This is where one finds all the action, with the side streets bustling with shops, restaurants, nightlife spots, etc. A couple of shopping arcades (shouten-gai) cross the main street.

A side street, off Tachibana street

In the morning I headed north towards the Miyazaki Prefectural Arts Museum. I was too early and the museum was closed, but the building itself and the surrounding open spaces were nice to see nonetheless.

Grounds of the Miazaki Prefectural Art Museum

The Miazaki Prefectural Art Museum

A bit further north on the same road I entered the vast grounds of Miyazaki Shrine. It is said to be 2,500 years old. To get to the shrine one walks through a quiet forest that puts the bustle of the roads behind. When I visited, the staff were busy setting up stalls and preparing for the big crowds expected the following week. During the first three days of the year many people flock to shrines for hatsumode, making their wishes for the new year. But during my visit (December 28) the shrine was almost empty. Wooden lanterns line up the way into the shrine, and the shrine itself, made of unpainted cedar wood, blends in well with the surrounding forest.

Lanterns Leading to the Shrine

Miyazaki Shrine

New Year Wishes

North of Yamazaki Shrine lies Heiwadai Koen (Peace Park), sitting on a small hill and also built 2,500 years ago. The park is dominated by a large monument, the Peace Tower, erected in the 1930s. I wrote a separate post explaining about this monument’s history, as I had an interesting encounter there with a fellow tourist.

Heiwadai Park – Peace Tower

On the way back to the hotel, before Shabbat, I had lunch at a vegan restaurant called Chago. I didn’t expect much, this being Miyazaki… but I was positively surprised. A beautiful Japanese decor and a delicious lunch. It is situated right behind the art museum.

Lunch at Chago Vegan Restaurant, Miyazaki

I booked at the last minute so there weren’t many choices left (this being the holiday season), but luckily I found a room in Miyazaki at one of my favorite mid-class hotel chains, Dormy Inn, which have an unbeatable advantage: a hot spring public bath. I immersed myself in the outside bath to wash off the 12 kilometers I walked today.

Day 2: Miyazaki City

Shabbat, so all I did was take it easy, stroll along the Oyodo river (braving the bitterly cold winds), take more soaks in the hotel onsen, and finish the book I’m reading…

Day 3: Miyazaki > Nichinan > Cape Ito

First thing in the morning I picked up my rental car from Nippon Rent-A-Car at Miyazaki Station. After making sure the navigation system was set to English, I headed south to explore the southeastern corner of Kyushu.

My first stop was Aoshima Island. This small island (about 10 acres) sits right off the coast, about half an hour’s drive south of Miyazaki City. It is easily accessible on foot via a short bridge, and a walk around the island takes about 30 minutes. The rock formations in the shallow sea waters are quite remarkable: long, thin stripes of rocks extending into the sea. They are called Oni no Sentakuita (devil’s washboard). The shrine on the island is very colorful and is apparently popular among newly-wed couples, who buy clay disks which they then throw and break for good luck. The shrine extends from the beach into the sub-tropical forest at the center of the island, offering a nice contrast between the sunny, sandy beach and the dark, cool forest.

Aoshima Island

Entrance to Aoshima Shrine

“Devil’s Washboard” Rock Formations

Aoshima Island Shrine

Broken Clay Disks

Next to Aoshima Island is a small Botanical Garden, featuring both outdoor and indoor (glasshouse) plants and flowers.

Aoshima Botanical Garden

Continuing south along the coast, I arrived at Sun Messe, a place that looks so out of place in Japan it’s almost surreal. It is unclear what this place is exactly, something in between an amusement park (for families) and an outdoor museum. The raison d’etre of this place are the seven Moai statues, replicas of the world-famous originals on Easter Island. The site boasts (over and over again) that these are the only replicas allowed in the entire world! The statues have been there for 20 years now, and they are a real attraction, judging by the number of people praying to them, taking photos with them and generally milling around them. I haven’t had the chance to visit Easter Island yet, so this is second-best I guess…

The Moai Statues in Sun Messe

The Moai Statues on Sun Messe

Me and my Two Big Brothers…

My next stop was a few kilometers down the coast, and one of the most popular spots in Miyazaki: Udo Shrine. It’s located inside a cave, on a cliff overlooking the ocean (yes, it’s as beautiful as it sounds). Women hoping for a child, or expecting a child, come here and drink water from the rocks, as legend has it that Emperor Jimmu (the first one) was nourished from these waters. Another practice is standing on the terrace overlooking the ocean and throwing clay pebbles (100 Yen for 5 pieces), trying to hit a circular target marked by a rope down below. Women throw with their right hand and men with their left hand. If you hit the target, that’s considered good luck. I hit 3 out of 5, so I guess it’s so-so luck for me. In my defense, I am right-handed…

The Cliff of Udo Shrine

Good Luck Pebbles

Trying to Hit the Target…

From Udo Shrine my plan was to head inland towards Obi City, and see the Obi Castle ruins. But on a whim I gave Obi a skip (I figured I saw enough castle ruins in Japan…) and instead continued south along the coast to reach the southernmost tip of eastern Kyushu, Cape Toi.

The area is famous for the wild horses that roam the area. And they are indeed roaming wildly; you can see them as you drive, on either side of the road. There is also a museum about the horses in the visitor center. The cape itself has a large, white lighthouse and offers beautiful ocean views. Another attraction here is the Misaki Shrine, which was built on the mountain face in the 8th century. Due to mudslides, the climb up to the shrine itself is prohibited, but you can reach the bottom of the cliff on foot and get a view of the shrine.

View from Cape Toi

The Three main Attractions in Cape Toi

Cape Toi Lighthouse

Wild Horses at Cape Toi

That was it for day one. I headed back north to Nichinan for my onsen hotel, perched on a hill overlooking Kitago valley, and offering outdoor baths with this view. Pure bliss.

View from Hotel to Kitago Valley

Day 4: Sekino-o > Tsumagirishima > Saito > Mimitsu > Hyuga

Today started off cloudy with a little rain. I didn’t mind much as this day was planned for a longer drive between sightseeing spots, and not so much walking.

My first stop was Sekino-o Falls near Miyakonjo. This is one of the widest waterfalls I’ve seen in Japan. Apparently it has the largest pot holes in the world (I wish I knew what that was…). There’s a suspension bridge that allows you to cross the entire waterfall and then you can make your way up to the top.

Sekino-o Falls

Sekino-o Falls Suspension Bridge

The Top of Sekino-o Falls

A short drive from Sekino-o Falls is Tsumagirishima Shrine (alternative spelling: Tsuma Kirishima). This is a most interesting shrine, as it combines Buddhism and Shinto, as well as demons (Oni). The climb up to the shrine is very steep, large stairs made of large rocks. The legend is that the demon (a statue of which guards the entrance) built this massive staircase in one night. For those who need help, there are bamboo sticks available to help the climb. Alternatively, one can climb using more conventional stairs and ramps, from the parking lot area. The shrine itself looks very old, made of unpolished wood.

The Demon (Oni) Guarding the Entrance

The Stairs to the Shrine

Tsumagirishima Shrine

Bamboo Sticks to Help with the Climb

I continued on to Saito City, to see the Saitobaru Burial Mounds. These date back more than 1,000 years and are spread over a large area, which was excavated archaeologically only 20-30 years ago. Frankly, there’s not much to see here, and after you’ve seen a couple of burial mounds you kind of get the point…

Saitobaru Burial Mounds

Continuing my drive northwards towards Hyuga, I decided to stop and check out the old port town of Mimitsu. I was very glad I made this detour, because this tiny (and almost completely deserted) town turned out to be the highlight of this day. An enchanting port, preserved old wooden houses, an old shrine, and many small details that made my afternoon stroll through the narrow streets of Mimitsu a most enjoyable one.

Mimitsu Post Office

Electric Goods Store

Ready for the New Year in Mimitsu

Mimitsu Port

Before getting to my hotel in Hyuga City, I drove to Hyuga Cape, to watch the sun set over the bay. A popular spot here for romantic couples is Sea Cross, where the rock formations down below in the sea are in the shape of a cross. Regardless of couples and rocks, the views here are stupendous.

Sea Cross at Cape Hyuga

The Sun Setting over Cape Hyuga

Hyuga City

Tonight is New Year’s Eve. Hyuga City, a sleepy town (population 63,000), is hardly the place to look for places to party into the new year. Which suits me just fine. It was a long driving day and I’m tired. I read in bed while listening to the bell ringing 108 times at the nearby Buddhist temple (to symbolize getting rid of the 108 human sins before the new year).

Day 5: Tachihiko > Mount Aso > Yufuin

Today I spent most of the day in the place that prompted me to visit eastern Kyushu in the first place, Takachiho. I read about it in several travel blogs and it receives unanimous accolades. So I set out early from Hyuga, driving through mostly deserted streets shortly after the first sunrise of the year.

Takachiho is meaningful to many Japanese people as it is identified with the mythological Amaterasu, the goddess of the sun and the universe in the Shinto religion. The Japanese Emperors lineage also apparently started here. So it is no wonder that Takachiho Shrine, on January 1, was already packed with worshippers at an early morning hour. I joined the crowds and lined up politely to enter the shrine. From an architectural perspective it is not a very impressive shrine. The more impressive ones in the area are Amano-Iwato and Amano-Yasugawara shrines, both of which I skipped because I didn’t feel like standing too long in lines (and because I figured I already saw enough shrines on this trip).

Entrance to Takachiho Shrine

Waiting in Line to Pray at Takachiho Shrine

From the shrine it is a short drive to the main attraction: Takachiho Gorge. This narrow gorge with its tall, sharp cliff edges made of volcanic rock, is indeed very impressive. There is a footpath along the gorge, which takes about 20-30 minutes to walk (with pauses for picture taking), and provides a view from above. At the head of the gorge there’s a small boat pier, and people can row back and forth along the gorge, providing a view from below. There’s a waterfall about halfway through the gorge. It was too cold for me to attempt the boat ride (I left my gloves in the car), but I did enjoy walking back and forth along the pathway. The photos do not do the place justice…

Boats under Takachiho Gorge Waterfallhttp://www.aso.ne.jp/~volcano/eng/

Takachiho Gorge

Entrance to Takachiho Gorge Footpath

From Takachiho I took the long drive to Mount Aso, hoping to see the various craters of this active volcano. The roads to Mount Aso were partly closed down after the April 2016 Kumamoto earthquake and opened again only recently. Before going, one needs to check whether the area is crater area is open to the public; sometimes it’s shut due to high levels of poisonous volcanic gases (check here).

It’s a steep drive up this 1,600m mountain, and about halfway it started getting foggy. Getting to the crater is possible either by ropeway, shuttle bus or private car. The fog at the summit became so thick the ropeway was not in operation, and the advice was not to go up (by bus or car) as visibility is zero. I drove up anyway (fee: 800 Yen), only to get the following view. Oh well… I guess I’ll see the crater another time.

Entrance to the Crater Area at Mount Aso

A View of the Crater at Mount Aso (it’s there, behind the fog)

The drive back down the mountain was somewhat scary, as visibility was reduced to only a few meters.

That concluded my day of sightseeing and I headed north to Yufuin, where I plan to spend the next two days mostly relaxing and soaking in hot spring waters.

Days 6-7: Yufuin > Beppu > Kitsuki > Oita

This is my second time in Yufuin, and you can read my impressions from my first visit here.

Yufuin is mostly an onsen town, with not much to see if you don’t enjoy hot springs or want to spend time jostling with Korean and Chinese tourists in an over-touristy shopping street. I stayed 2 nights in a small ryokan with a private small onsen bathtub and a view of the town.

A View of Yufuin

Another View of Yufuin

On the second day, after checking out, I had a whole day before my flight back. So I made my way slowly through the mountains to Beppu. After arriving there, I took the ropeway up to Mount Tsurumi. The summit is reached after another 30 minutes or so climb. The views of Beppu and the surrounding countryside on this clear day were stunning.

The Climb to the Summit of Mount Tsurumi

Mount Tsurumi Summit

View of Beppu from Mount Tsurumi

I had read online about Beppu’s “hidden onsens”, that is onsens that are not easy to reach and do not have any facilities attached to them. I wanted to reach one of them, so I headed up Mount Nabeyama to reach Nabeyama-No-Yu, a rotenburo (open-air onsen). The road to the onsen is closed off, because a woman was murdered here 8 years ago; signs warn people about this. So I had to hike up the mountain for 20 minutes or so to reach the onsen. It was well worth it as I was there completely alone most of the time (until a local couple turned up), soaking in hot water and surrounded by nothing but nature.

Sign near Nabeyama-No-Yu

Nabeyama-No-Yu Hot Spring

My last stop before Oita Airport was a  castle town called Kitsuki. There’s a small reconstructed castle tower with information about the local warlords and some history. Not much to look at, but as I had time I stopped here and took in the views.

Kitsuki Castle Tower

View from Kitsuki Castle Tower

From here I headed to Oita Airport, returned my rental car, and took a JAL flight back to Osaka (ITM airport).

Miyazaki prefecture is a great place to visit if you want to see rural Japan and avoid the well-trodden touristy paths.