Shikoku Trip – Day 3 – Iya Valley

Route: Around Iya Valley

Drive: 125km (and about 4km boat ride; Walk: 4km

• Day 1
• Day 2
• Day 3
• Day 4
• Day 5
• Day 6

The plan for today was to wander around Iya Valley, taking in a few of the sights along the river running at the bottom of this long, meandering valley at the center of the island. The weather was not so good: near freezing temperatures with overcast skies and occasional light snow.

My first destination was Oku-Iya Niju Kazurabashi, a double vine bridge over the river. Apparently, there’s a ‘husband’ bridge (44m long) and a ‘wife’ bridge (half as long), which served feudal clans, but are reinforced with steel today. But I never got to see them… When I got to this remote area, perched almost 1,000m high on Mount Tsurugi, I was faced with a sign saying the bridges are closed down for repairs.

Iya Valley (and the closed Oku-Iya Niji Kazurabashi)

So I drove back west on Route 439 to reach Nagoro village, also known as ‘scarecrow village’. This tiny village – really only a few houses scattered along the road – has more than 200 scarecrows “inhabiting” it, many more than the humans living here (or so they say, because I didn’t see a breathing soul). Apparently, a long-time villager by the name of Ayano Tsukimi was fed up with the declining population of the village – a sight common in ageing Japan – and decided to “populate” it with straw, lifelike dolls. These dolls now tend the fields, wait in bus stops, work in the fields, and attend the (now closed) local school. Walking around this place is an experience that is as fascinating as it is creepy.

Nagoro (Scarecrow) Village

With the remote vine bridges closed, I had no choice but to visit the more touristy Oku-Iya Kazurabashi (vine bridge). This bridge is much larger and sturdier, about 45m long, attached to huge cedar trees, and requiring a steep admission fee (considering it takes less than 2 minutes to cross). Next to the bridge is a quaint visitor center, which shows how the vines are made and how the bridge is built (it is renewed every 3 years). A small nearby waterfall completes the Kazurabashi experience.

Iya Kazurabashi (Vine Bridge)

A short drive up the hill from Kazurabashi one stumbles upon a small statue of a peeing boy. Some signs designate it as the local Manneken Pis, named after the famous Brussels fountain. The story is that the small rock the statue stands on proved irresistible to testosterone-producing humans, who felt the need to urinate down the steep rock cliff. People throw 1-yen coins on this rock. Go figure.

Statue of the Peeing Boy

After wandering a bit more up the hills, taking hairpin turns and negotiating tight one-lane roads with bi-directional traffic, I headed back down to Oboke Gorge. This gorge boasts steep, jagged rocky walls and very clear waters. After some deliberation, I braved the cold weather and took a 30-minute boat ride along the gorge, which offers close views of the rocks.

Oboke Gorge River Boat

Frozen from this short boat ride I decided to head back to the hotel. The hot waters of the onsen were calling…